Allure & Couture - Part III: Giambattista Valli

Giambattista Valli Haute Couture

Printemps/Eté 2013

Giambattista Valli Haute Couture SS13, at Vogue Paris.

De alguma forma, a grande maioria das colecções de Alta Costura que Paris viu desfilar na última semana estava impregnada de flores. Flores de todos os feitios e de todos os cheiros. Flores para todos os gostos.

Somehow, most haute Couture collections showcased in Paris last week were drenched in flowers. Flowers of every shape and smell. Flowers for all kinds of tastes.

Giambattista Valli Haute Couture SS13, at Vogue Paris.

 Giambattista Valli não foi excepção.

Giambattista Valli was no exception.

Giambattista Valli Haute Couture SS13, at Vogue Paris.

 Apesar de tudo, a inspiração floral manifestou-se de uma forma bastante subtil na primeira parte do desfile, povoada por pretos de várias densidades. Entre tules, estampados algo animalescos e "tecidos" cujo aspecto rendilhado fazia lembrar as nervuras e os pequenos canais que reticulam as pétalas das flores, surgiam estruturas de volumetrias bem definidas. As silhuetas "sino" reinaram, reivindicando ancas generosas e cinturas estreitas.

This floral inspiration was very subtle in the first half of the show, where different densities of black were all over the place. Soft yet defined volumetries blossomed from tulles, animal prints and reticulated fabrics, replicating the small canals structuring a flower petal. Mostly shaped like bells, the silhouettes claimed generous hips and wasp waists.

Giambattista Valli Haute Couture SS13, at Vogue Paris.

Giambattista Valli Haute Couture SS13, at Vogue Paris.

 De uma forma ou de outra, todos os volumes acabavam por assemelhar-se a flores. As saias rodas estilo anos 50 faziam lembrar flores mais abertas e maduras. As saias e casacos mais afunilados mimetizavam botões por florir. Os vestidos-capa pendiam mais para cálices e campânulas selvagens. E, por fim, peplums exagerados e maximizados por caudas frondosas recriavam flores bem abertas, na posse de todo o seu esplendor.

One way or another, all the volumes resembled fowers. The 50's-inspired full skirts seemed more open and mature flowers. The tapering coats and skirts mimicked young buttons ready to flourish. The cape-dresses were closer to cup and bell shaped wild flowers. At last, big peplums, exagerated by lush leafy trains, recreated the most splendorous blossoms.

Giambattista Valli Haute Couture SS13, at Vogue Paris.

Giambattista Valli Haute Couture SS13, at Vogue Paris.

Giambattista Valli Haute Couture SS13, at Vogue Paris.

Idos os pretos, Giambattista deliciou a audiência com todo o romance que as flores podem conter.

After the blacks, Giambattista brought in all the romance flowers represent.

Giambattista Valli Haute Couture SS13, at Vogue Paris.

Giambattista Valli Haute Couture SS13, at Vogue Paris.

 Cada vestido era uma explosão pastel de pétalas sem fim.

Each dress was a pastel explosion of countess petals.

Giambattista Valli Haute Couture SS13, at Vogue Paris.

Giambattista Valli Haute Couture SS13, at Vogue Paris.

Jóias preciosas. Fragmentos de sonho. Poemas de amor.

Precious jewels. Pieces of dreams. Love poems.

Giambattista Valli Haute Couture SS13, at Vogue Paris.

Giambattista Valli Haute Couture SS13, at Vogue Paris.

 Tudo era leve e suave como uma brisa de primavera, que percorre um jardim espontâneo e arrasta traços do seu perfume delicado.

All was light and mild as a spring breeze wondering through a spontaneous garden and embodying traces of its delicate perfume.

Giambattista Valli Haute Couture SS13, at Vogue Paris.

Giambattista Valli Haute Couture SS13, at Vogue Paris.

 Tudo era bucólico e apelava à evasão, ao escape para um lugar onírico. Para um bosque de ninfas encantadas e fadas deslumbradas.

All was bucolic and helped us escape to an oniric place. To a wood of charming nymphs and enchanting fairies.

Giambattista Valli Haute Couture SS13, at Vogue Paris.

Giambattista Valli Haute Couture SS13, at Vogue Paris.

Giambattista Valli Haute Couture SS13, at Vogue Paris.

 Beleza em estado puro.

The purest beauty.

Giambattista Valli Haute Couture SS13, at Vogue Paris.

 As sedas esvoaçantes, os brilhos dançantes e os acessórios que esculpiam flores em jóias tão fascinates, todos apontavam na direcção da frescura, da brandura... Na direcção doce de um gesto feminino tão etéreo e prestes a desvanecer-se.

The floating silks, the dancing shines and the fascinating flowers-gone-jewels accessories pointed to a same refreshing and calm direction... A sweet direction leading to an ethereal and almost fading feminine gesture.

Giambattista Valli Haute Couture SS13, at Vogue Paris.

Giambattista Valli Haute Couture SS13, at Vogue Paris.

Giambattista Valli Haute Couture SS13, at Vogue Paris.

What's Your Fashion Statement?

 As you might have noticed, I tend to fall in love with this dreamy idea fashion creations carry in delicate seams. I look a lot into the past for inspiration as the future alone is not enough. I also worship Haute Couture and, even though I can't afford it, I try to learn some style lessons from the big masters. 

Giambattista Valli Haute Couture SS13

Do you want to know how does this come alive in my everyday life and which are the items I can't do without?

Marie Antoinette

Your wait is over!

Lesson nº 1: Faux-fur: 

 Layer and layers! Coats, collars over coats, stoles over souls! Find your harmony and get cosy, stylish and chic. Très chic!

 

Lesson nº2: High Heels!
 They're my basic of basics!

Oh, that's right! I got used to wearing them every day, everywhere (no, I don't wear them to the gym or sleep in them... yet! =P ). Well, to be honest I feel quite unconfortable in shoes lower than 2,5 - 3cm. And fortunately there are pretty comfortable heels to suit a busy everyday life :) Those sky high needle heels are kept for speacial occasions only!

Everyday Wedges

Day to Night golden heel ankle boots

Special Occasions nude pumps

Lesson nº3: Royal Bijoux
I need big rocks and romantic pearls to brighten my days and dazzle my nights!

Lesson nº4: Hats and Turbans

Hats and turbans are something I've always creved from the old glorious time of the couturiers. There's definitely an exotique allure in them.

Lesson nº5: Big Tote

I need to carry my life everywhere I go, so a big bag is absolutelly essential!

For now that's all! Hope ti have inspired you with this sneak peek into these lovely beauties I wear almost everyday! ;)

Thanks Mari and Donna! Loved your initiative ;)

Allure & Couture - Part II: Chanel

Chanel Haute Couture

Printemps/Eté 2013

Chanel Haute Couture SS 2013, at Vogue Paris.

Desfiles assim fazem-me voar entre plumas de sonho e brilhos de fantasia.

This kind of fashion show makes me fly through dream feathres and fantasy shimmers.

Chanel Haute Couture SS 2013, at Vogue Paris.

 É como se os tecidos resultassem do cruzamento de fios de poemas e adquirissem a leveza das nuvens brancas e a densidade quase transparente das neblinas doces.

Chanel Haute Couture SS 2013, at Vogue Paris.

 It feels like the fabrics were woven with poetic threads and gained the lightness of white clouds and the sweet haze's sheer density.

Chanel Haute Couture SS 2013, at Vogue Paris.

Chanel Haute Couture SS 2013, at Vogue Paris.

 O cuidado com o detalhe é exímio e a subtlieza de algumas decorações só as torna mais sumptuosas. 

Majestade ao milímetro.

Chanel Haute Couture SS 2013, at Vogue Paris.

The most suble details are so carefully placed they grow in sumptuousness.

Majesty to the millimeter.

Chanel Haute Couture SS 2013, at Vogue Paris.

O clássico casaco Chanel em versão espartilho. Cheio de nervuras e costuras, bem cintado e plano no busto, aboata-se à frente com as jóias da coroa.

The classic Chanel jacket was reinterpreted in the shapes of corsetery. Structured in rigid looking seams, tight at the waist and flat on the chest, it's buttoned down with crown jewels on the front.

Chanel Haute Couture SS 2013, at Vogue Paris.

Chanel Haute Couture SS 2013, at Vogue Paris.

Chanel Haute Couture SS 2013, at Vogue Paris.

 Camadas de tiras envolventes, definidas por escadas cor de pérola ou franzidos vaporosos, desdobraram a magia que se vivia no bosque do Grand Palais.

Layers of enveloping fabrics, defined by pearly staircases and tranparencies puckered in a vaporous fashion, unfolded the magic at Grand Palais.

Chanel Haute Couture SS 2013, at Vogue Paris.

Chanel Haute Couture SS 2013, at Vogue Paris.

Chanel Haute Couture SS 2013, at Vogue Paris.

 E, entre plumagens sem peso e brilhos de pérola, algures naquele lugar estranho onde as traduções se perdem, debrochava nas mulheres da passerelle uma alma de pássaro... De pássaro livre e sem rumo, doce e atormentado. Pássaros da lua, que ocultam a face obscura com brilhos de prata.

Chanel Haute Couture SS 2013, at Vogue Paris.

Chanel Haute Couture SS 2013, at Vogue Paris.

Chanel Haute Couture SS 2013, at Vogue Paris.

And finally the bird women were invading the catwalk, lost in tranlation, dressed in pearled watery mirrors and weightless feathers... They had the sweet troubled souls of free errant birds. Birds from the moon, always shading theis darkest side with silvery shimmers.

Chanel Haute Couture SS 2013, at Vogue Paris.

 Num momento pássaros da lua, no outro flores de um jardim de ébanao.

In a blink of an eye, those moon bird turned to flowers from an ebony garden.

Chanel Haute Couture SS 2013, at Vogue Paris.

 Depois da metamorfose, o protagonismo vai para os volumes expansivos e cheios de movimentos arredondados.

After the metamorphosis, some fabulously expansive and rounded volumes take over the scene.

Chanel Haute Couture SS 2013, at Vogue Paris.

 Volumes negros e cravejados de flores preciosas. Estrelas de purpurina sobre noites de organza.

Black volumes embroidered with precious flowers. Glitter stars over sheer layers of night.

Chanel Haute Couture SS 2013, at Vogue Paris.

Sem esquecer as inpirações mais poéticas, há detalhes formais que também merecem destaque.
But, besides all this boetry there are a few interesting formal details that have earned their spot.

Começo pelas mangas. Luvas de ópera estendidas para o infinito ou bainhas de espadas? Arquitecturas do futuro ou cálices de flor?

Let's begin with sleeves. Opera gloves pointing towards the sky or swords' sheats? Future architecture or flower cups?

Chanel Haute Couture SS 2013, at Vogue Paris.

Chanel Haute Couture SS 2013, at Vogue Paris.

As pequenas capas sobre os ombros, mais ou menos evidentes, foram outra característica bem presente.

Little shoulder capelets were seen in most of the showcased outfits.

Chanel Haute Couture SS 2013, at Vogue Paris.

E as botas? Karl Lagerfeld já não passa sem botas altíssimas que cobrem as penas com os materiais mais surpreendentes. Não são um sonho?

Have you noticed the boots? Karl Largerld can't do without thigh high boots that cover the legs in surprising materials. Aren't they dreamy?

Chanel Haute Couture SS 2013, at Vogue Paris.

Chanel Haute Couture SS 2013, at Vogue Paris.

 De volta às rendas, às penas e ao romance, termino com os looks mais etérios e delicados da colecção.

Back to lace, feathers and romance, I'll end this post with the collection's most ethereal and delicate looks.

Chanel Haute Couture SS 2013, at Vogue Paris.

Chanel Haute Couture SS 2013, at Vogue Paris.

 Não consigo deixar de me apaixonar por este tipo de beleza que dança entre o angelical e o decadente...

I just can't help falling in love with angelically decadent kind of beauty...

Chanel Haute Couture SS 2013, at Vogue Paris.

Chanel Haute Couture SS 2013, at Vogue Paris.

Alguns chamam-lhe gótico romântico.
 Some call it roamantic gothic.

Chanel Haute Couture SS 2013, at Vogue Paris.

Chanel Haute Couture SS 2013, at Vogue Paris.

E é verdade.
And that's true.

Chanel Haute Couture SS 2013, at Vogue Paris.

Chanel Haute Couture SS 2013, at Vogue Paris.

São sonhos perfeitos e algo desfeitos.
I see perfect and a bit messed up dreams.

Chanel Haute Couture SS 2013, at Vogue Paris.

Chanel Haute Couture SS 2013, at Vogue Paris.

 Contos de fadas e fábulas de ninfas.
Tales of fairies ansmyths of nymphs.

Chanel Haute Couture SS 2013, at Vogue Paris.

Convenções quebradas e um mundo mais amplo.
Broken conventions and a broader world.

Chanel Haute Couture SS 2013, at Vogue Paris.

O tiunfo de qualquer forma de amor.
The triumph of any sort of love.