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segunda-feira, 11 de fevereiro de 2013

New York Fashion Week - Episode 4

Outono/Inverno 2013/14
Fall/Winter 2013/14

Alexander Wang

Tem 29 anos, uma marca sensação em nome próprio e acabou de ser nomeado diretor criativo da Balenciaga. Pois é, Alexander Wang tomou o lugar de Nicholas Guesquière em Paris e o mundo da moda anseia a sua estreia. Mas ainda estamos em Nova Iorque, no paraíso das it girls sobre quem o designer exerce uma atração magnética. Aí mesmo, na "grande maçã", Wang demonstrou que está mais do que pronto para o grande combate pariesense.

Num cenário fosco, guerreiras determinadas sugiram da neve e do nevoeiro, armadas com luvas de pelo e protegidas por casacos oversized de linhas arredondadas. Esses casacos cinzentos e cintura descaída, construídos a partir das lãs mais nobres, mostram-se fortes em contornos bem gráficos, bem a la Alexander Wang.

Alguns coordenados pareciam evocar os anos 20. Cinturas baixas com pormenores de torcidos, alguns brilhos e saias midi evasé. Certo e inegável foi o portagonismo das texturas. Do aspeto algo indefenido à suavidade luxuosa do toque, lãs mohair foram penteadas, astrakhans misturados com seda, cabedais debruados a alpaca. Para finalizar, os contornos das peças sucumbiram à alta definação e ao requinte do cetim duquesa. Mas sempre com um acompanhante felpudo capaz de desconstruir a polidez construindo interesse sensorial.



Alexander Wang FW 13/14, at Style.com.

He's 29, runs a sensational eponymous brand and just got hired as creative director at Balenciaga. That's right, Alexander Wang was given Nicholas Guesquière's place in Paris and the world of fashion craves his premiere. But we're still in New York, a paradise for the it girls the designer atracts as magnets. There, in the "big apple", Wang proved his more than ready for the grand parisian match.

In a blurry set, fierce fighters rose from the snow and the fog, armed with furry super gloves and protected by rounded oversized coats. Those grey coats with low waist lines were built from the finest wools and stood strong in graphic contours a la Alexander Wang.

Some outfits looked 20's inspired. Dropped waists with twisted details, some shinny large paillettes and midi A-line skirts. Certain and undeniable was the textures' protagonism. From the somehow blurred outlines to the luxurious smoothness of touch, mohairs were brushed to a hairy appearence, astrakhans were mingled with silk and leathers trimmed with alpaca. In the end, the clothes' contours turned to an exquisite and high-definition version in duchesse satins. Still, they were always in a furry company capable of tonning down the polised look while building sensorial interest.

Alexander Wang FW 13/14, at Style.com.


Alexander Wang FW 13/14, at Style.com.

Alexander Wang FW 13/14, at Style.com.

Alexander Wang FW 13/14, at Style.com.

Alexander Wang FW 13/14, at Style.com.

Alexander Wang FW 13/14, at Style.com.

Alexander Wang FW 13/14, at Style.com.

Alexander Wang FW 13/14, at Style.com.

Alexander Wang FW 13/14, at Style.com.

Alexander Wang FW 13/14, at Style.com.

Alexander Wang FW 13/14, at Style.com.

Alexander Wang FW 13/14, at Style.com.

Alexander Wang FW 13/14, at Style.com.
 

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